I guess I should have asked if you found it is different with a sabre grip, but I think you answered that question. I honestly don't know. So serious. Can't tell when I'm joking. It's okay, I've still got you doing T&C in my core memory banks :evil: -- Sorry just saw the movie Inside Out
A clip from a recent class The grappling in the traditional Japanese arts has to take account of attacks like groin kicks and use of fingers/thumbs whilst wearing a gi. This changes the structure a little and I thought it may be interesting to share my somewhat crude attempts to illustrate the points here Also we use kicks quite a lot in grappling and the method used may be interesting to people Apologies for the editing... https://vimeo.com/138321989
Nice. My instructor once got in a fight with a man that had a loaded rifle. They both had hold of the rifle and my instructor was trying to kick the opponent, but my instructor's jeans were so tight that he could only kick knee high. Funny story now in hindsight. He could have used some of the video stuff. Do you ever work the push/pull (shaking) the opponent to break posture then kick them? It is very hard style, but it is where we start before realizing the more subtle stuff is better in the long run.
Hi Ive not seen any shaking to take balance in our style It would be interesting to see if you have a clip
I only use one stance and this is probably due to the art(s) I do. We transition through the ranges quite quickly, and we don't alter the width of length of the stance, as there isn't time. When in boxing range all of my punches are from boxing, but as I may have thrown a low line kick and gone through trapping hands range to get there I find one stance has to fit all. Maybe in the ring I'd have to adapt, but I don't teach anyone for competition.
Oh, I wasn't saying to change the stance. I was just wondering if you found that a vertical fist worked better given the type of stance used. I tend to think so.
Not your style, but here is an old clip (over ten years old I think) of me. I'm showing push/pull shaking in it, but my uke isn't really trying to resist. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5A6qSN_F-U"]Punch & Counter 5 AB RW105 - YouTube[/ame] P.S. I'm sloppy on the passing the blade on a few of them. Uke's arm should be perpendicular to the ground so I don't cut myself if uke has a knife.
We have similar methods Typically a forceful grab to the shoulder (also a strike that becomes a grab) pushing uke back & exposing the groin. Followed by a kick to the groin and a pull on the shoulders to fold uke as his lower half is moved back/up Then a similar take down So I'd say the same principle, perhaps just with less strikes
Often people (with good reason) write off wrist locks because in isolation they require very precise timing to pull off, and when they are done they have a high risk of injury However, if you look at the traditional arts that put an emphasis onto wrist locks they are almost always accompanied by strikes, sweeps etc In my experience, just adding simple strikes to the set up makes wrist locks high percentage responses to clothing grabs So I thought I'd share a basic technique from my style that demonstrates this point The usual caveats for my vids apply.... https://vimeo.com/138565391 Ps - had a long plane journey so even did some editing
A principle we use is that "you always stun or unbalance before lock or throw" So you always need to stun or unbalance your opponent before applying a wrist lock. Atemi (striking) is a common method to stun or unbalance, and even if you fail both, you can still soften them up a bit for something else. The form of wrist locking I think that is often missed, probably due to safety reasons, is the wrist break. So I say always stun or unbalance before lock or throw, but you do NOT have to before a break. The break is the stun. Breaks are done quick and over a short range of motion. I think most understand quick (about three times normal speed), but the short range of motion is not a much talked about subject. What I mean by short is just a few inches. So if the wrist is already bent, then only a few inches more will break it. This break might not cause long term damage, but if done right will stun. It goes trap and snap. Once you stun, you can then lock or throw.
Got another video shot this morning. This one on the subject of keeping your technique in check while delivering power shots. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBS2nuEtCSs"]Watch Your Technique - YouTube[/ame]
My one (and probably only) video for map for escaping a deep clinch. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lS6nYoBIZc"]X Block for Rebel Wado - YouTube[/ame]
Reviving this thread with a short clip from this week's class We covered a way of applying a wrist lock very quickly and, ideally, giving your partner minimal feedback until it's too late https://vimeo.com/145038678 As usual it's just a clip taken from the corner of the room in class so apologies for the quality
Thank you to Southpaw535 for letting me use this clip. Early morning boxing drill workout in the park. What I like about this is that earlier in the year Southpaw said his rear leg stayed in the bucket and was a weak point. Here though he seems to have fixed that and in addition he has a really nice hip turnover. Keep the lead hand coming back on the high line, Aaron, otherwise really nice work. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOCn3Sxskpc"]Southpaw535 with a nice drill in the park. - YouTube[/ame]
For my own opinions on that video, I'm not disappointed with it but there are still multiple problems I've spotted: - Hook is very wide and I drop my hand to throw it instead of it staying shoulder height and being tight. One of my coaches has got me throwing it thumb down to get me to keep my elbow high but I can't throw it with power like that so (because its being recorded and I want to hit things ) I went back to throwing it how I normally do. Due to my cross being weak, my lead hook is the only punch I throw that feels like a power shot so I focus on trying to bingo things with it instead of focusing on proper technique. - Distance is still a big problem for me. All my crosses land with a bent arm. Something I've been working on fixing for a while and its better, but apparently it is still an issue. - Guard is too wide. People splitting it with straight shots is a long-time problem - I do keep my hands up relatively well in the middle of combos, but I'm used to "back to the chin" being the standard and I'd like them to be coming back higher up to cover more of my face than just my jaw. - Rear foot is at a 90' angle and I move the wrong foot first a decent amount when we're moving. I also apologise for the swear. I have a terrible potty mouth in person.
Aaron, if you watch the first 20 seconds of the video again you'll see you turn the rear hip nice enough when throwing the rear cross, but the rear leg steps and the foot is placed down (just like a step). As soon as you step like that the energy goes into the ground and not forward into the punch. This results in an arm punch, which is why you feel the power is lacking. I have a drill you can do and will try and shoot something in class on Sunday.
have you tried throwing it like you would an elbow strike? just put your fist in the way and impact with it instead