No, I mean you compromise your defences against head shots. Leg blocks seem to be the way to go. Especially against low kicks. Some people find learning leg kicks hard. Personally, I have the trick naturally. When I sparred first, I got told off all the time because I was blocking with my legs
I agree with Goju, a front kick doesn't really hurt that much, unless you nail someone in the ribs. The most effective medium level kick to the body, would probably still be the roundhouse. I never actually use any other kicks, except for low kicks to the groin, or kneeing.
For me, kneeing is for after a combo or stunning strike, when you want to grab the guys head (shoulders, jacket etc) and finish him with a powerful rising knee to his face. The reason that I wouldn't do it as a regular attack is that I hate being inside any closer than punching distancing (being a striker primarily). I would like to learn to use leg blocks, but right now Im not very good at them. Like KE posted they are especially good against low kicks. A low block against a low roundhouse is going to put you in a very crappy position.
I'm a more of a clincher, I like to get inside, since there, I can just whack away with control without worrying about aim or distance. If I do need to keep my opponent away, I like to use jabs. It hurts like hell, pretty hard to dodge, and is just a great all around weapon. Driving it into the eye can really warn someone.
yep, best thing for contact sparring (imo). A good jab right to a guy's nose during sparring is such a good move. It doesn't leave you in any position that you'll need to change before attacking and it opens the guy up to soooo many combos. Once he's hit, unless his face is well conditioned and used to being hit, his eyes will close for a moment, maybe even water. You can (like I always do) fake or actually use a low kick or a right cross and then get in a nice jab, from there, your free to use whatever you want. Also, what I've recently learned is that I like to use huge "bomb" right hooks. Hooks aren't very common in karate and are disliked for their slow wind-up, but I would never begin an attack with one, or counter with one for that matter. I'll usually end a combination with one right to the jaw, if your fighting contact, this will usually drop your opponent. It's important that you don't use it too often though (easy as hell to block) and that your connecting properly, with the two first knuckles.
Another advantage to hooks is if you have cross-trained in boxing before, karate fighters never expect a quick hook. They are used to the karate style, where the fist is held out further than in boxing. It's not a guarantee, but it never hurts to mix it up a little.
Heh, that is true. Many karatekas don't expect you to use hooks so they can be pretty effective. I personally like leg combos. I use many different kicks. There is no special favourite.
ya, theyre cool, but I lost the ability to do kicking combos high and low. HAvent been stretching enough like I used to so I have to keep them low until I get a little more flexible.
2x4? How the heck are ya gonna break a 2x4 (unless it is a special one in which the grain goes the other way)? I would like to see that one!
2 x 4 I think means 2 inches by 4, or that's the dimensions. It is very easy to break a 2 inch board with proper training. In reply to the kicking combos, a good one, although risky, is a switch fake high side kick, then follow up with a middle or low roundhouse. It's simpler than it sounds, and is effective in full contact. Point sparring may be different.
2 inches by 4 what? A 2x4 is a standard stud size (actually 1.5x3.5 in reality). I know a 2 inch board is easy to break...I generally break two 2 inch board (or four 1 inch boards) with either a palm strike or chop. Speed and proper technique are the key.
Yeah, and it has also much to do with the muscles. I do lots of different leg exercices. Qigong, muscle work, dynamic and static stretching etc... Not just the stuff they do in our class.
No, I do not think that 4 would be anything other than inches, which does not make sense, and neither does 4 feet for that matter (in fact even less)! I would like to see the guy who can chop through a 2x4...that would be impressive.
often, there are long boards used in breaktest competitions. They're are long because it makes it easier to break, since the force takes longer to be spread out. the 4 inches could also make it harder to break, because the board is so small. What I don't understand is what you mean by 2 x 4. 2 x 4 what?
Well, a standard stud size of 2" thick x 4" wide (actually 1.5" x 3.5", but called a 2x4)and then however long. They are not used for breaking as the grain is going with the length, and this makes them way to strong for breaking. I am well aware of what is used for breaking, and it is usually 1" or 2" thick boards (again, they are not usually actually as thick as they are called) of a size of around 8" to 12" by 8" to 12". The narrower the board the harder the break since it reduces the leverage effect. These are breakable because you break with the grain, not against it which would be near impossible. That is why I say, a 2x4 does not make any sense. I hope this is now clear.
I used a weak roundhouse to the leg then a real hard and fast snapping one to the head area, using the same leg. It always worked for me in point sparring. I would never try something so bold in full contact as I'm not that good at it yet.
Yeaa... No. Just kidding. Yea, I see where you're coming from. I was just arguing for the sake of argument. Guess that makes me an idiot. To Goju: Yes, that combo is very risky to use in full contact. I wouldn't use it in point sparring though, because the momentum from when you drop the sidekick to the roundhouse is very hard to control, so you may end up getting DQ'd for excessive force. Another good point sparring combo is the classic fake high punch, then middle punch. (You could also add a hook to the back ribs or kidneys)
I don't understand what you mean about the sidekick and the momentum. It's a low roundhouse then the leg is rechambered, I tilt back and throw a higher roundhouse off the same leg. Please reword. The high jab low reverse (gyakuzuki) is the basic whitebelt "combo" and I'm so used to seeing it that as soon as a whitebelt punches for my head I block it and immeadiately prepare to deflect and counter the low one. I think that move is too common and wouldn't work on most karateka. I also like this move. You are in a left side forward fighting or sparring stance ( your comfortable stance) and you jab then lift the right/ back leg like your coming up for a mae geri then, once their focused low on your incoming kick you simply step down and throw a powerful right jab (jab, because your right side is forward now) to his face. It basically looks like a jab then a faked maegeri, landing so that your right foot is forward and another jab, this time using the right hand. It's the change between high, low and high again that makes it work for me . Left out one of my fav's, it's easy too. Do a step in sidekick, but on the step in part where your legs are crossed or together,do a backfist to the head, then shoot out the kick. Step in so that your back leg is in behind your front, do a backfist, then do a yoko geri off of the front leg, delicious .
So you do a fake high side kick. To sell it off, you really have to get it close. Control is an issue in point sparring, to avoid excessive force, right. So, at the last moment, you just draw back the side kick. You bring the side kick leg to the ground, and you pivot on it to do the real roundhouse. The momentum from dropping your side kick leg will throw your weight to one side, and the roundhouse will get an extra boost from that momentum. The problem with this is that it's so smooth, you can end up using too much force without control. The only way you could control it would be too completely weaken your kicks, which would have no effect.
