Dave Humm
16-Jan-2006, 03:40 PM
Cleaning and care for Japanese Swords
The Japanese sword is a weapon of death, it doesn’t matter what philosophical or spiritual attributes you associate with the training in such a weapon; the simple clear fact is this: Swords were and are still designed to kill. – Its important to remember that.
The Japanese sword is deadly even in the hands of fools therefore, great care must be exercised when handling even the least expensive decorative ‘wall hanger’ – Sharp is sharp no matter how much the sword costs – You will only need to be cut once to appreciate this and you’ll never forget the valuable lesson in care needed when handling a Japanese sword.
In my previous article [For those interested in the Japanese Sword (http://www.martialartsplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45509)] I discussed several aspects of owning Nihonto, I present as part two, ‘basic sword care and maintenance’. Please do not substitute this inanimate series of words for quality training with a qualified instructor, the material contained here only serves for illustrative purposes, I take no responsibility for injuries or careless behaviour resulting from what you read here and therefore attempt.
Like Budo, the Japanese sword requires a long-term relationship; care, discipline and commitment from its owner. Regardless of whether you own Iaito[1] or a Shinken[2] your Nihonto[3] requires a level of maintenance to ensure the life of the sword.
In general terms both Iaito and Shinken should be looked after in the same way however, there are slight differences in the cleaning routine depending on which type of toshin[4] you have, this will be explained later. The emphasis being, regardless of construction treat your sword with due respect.
Assuming you train with your sword on a regular basis, you will need to ensure the toshin is kept free of the mineral deposits found in human fingers, this contact although light, will happen during your training. The content of these mineral deposits will oxidise (essentially rust) the blade if they are left unattended. The oxidisation process however isn’t a problem for Iaito, this is due to the chromium plating which is used to simulate the polishing of a more traditionally constructed blade. Iaito are generally considered low maintenance compared to Shinken but, needless to say, finger marks on ANY sword look unsightly and illustrate a basic lack of respect for the weapon and the training undertaken.
The process of cleaning a Japanese sword is relatively straight forward requires only common sense, a small cleaning kit (of the right materials). If you are cleaning a live edged sword please exercise great care !!
Step 1. Disassembly
Gently tap out the Mekugi[5] using the peg hammer, remove the peg completely and inspect it for undue stress. If you intend to reuse the mekugi, store it in a safe place.
Inverting the sword and holding the Tsuka[6] tightly, push against the Tsuba[7] with the thumb to release the assembly; you may also need to tap your forearm with your opposite fist to assist in loosening the handle form the tang. Gently slide the tsuka away from the Nakago[8], in turn; remove the Seppa[9] and tsuba from the blade, now carefully withdraw the blade from the Saya[10].
Remove the Habaki[11].
Step 2. Cleaning
At this stage, if you own an Iaito all you’ll need do is dry wipe the blade with a clean cloth, inspect the entire blade for any damage or wear, then apply a thin layer of Choji[12] as described below. Iaito owners can jump to the reassembly section below.
If you own a Shinken, then it will require a little more attention. Using an uchiko[13] ball gently tap along the entire length of both sides of the blade, not forgetting to tap at least three times along the Mune[14] The uchiko powder serves to both absorb any mineral deposits but also acts as a mild polishing medium. This is why uchiko is not used on Iaito, the polishing effect which uchiko has over a prolonged time will scratch the plating used on these blades to similate a traditional polish.
Using a clean lint-free cloth carefully wipe the entire length of the blade removing all of the uchiko. It is advisable to use slow single length wipes from one end to the tip of the blade.
Point of note:
If you are careless at this stage you may find yourself requiring medical attention to your missing or badly sliced finger ends. – Be careful !
Inspect the blade for remaining marks – repeat the uchiko process if required.
It should be pointed out that you should never attempt to clean, remove rusting or the discolouration from the nakago – Especially on older swords.
Next we should apply a thin layer of protective sword oil, Choji. Abura-nuguishi[18] supplied with your cleaning kit pour a small amount of the oil on to the paper then apply in slow single wipe fashion; again be careful !
Make sure the oil is applied into the Hi[15].
Make a final inspection of the blade.
Step 3. Re-assembly
Reassembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly, first replace the Habaki, seppa and tsuba followed by the remaining seppa, replace the tsuka and gently tapping the base of the handle to ensure the nakago is fully seated, you may need to use the tapered end of the Mekugi-nuki [16] to make the final adjustment to align the nakago-ana[17]. Once this is done replace the mekugi. Carefully replace the sword back in to the scabbard.
Considerations:
Iaito are ‘factory’ constructed and generally have a much tighter fit between the tsuka and nakago, one should therefore only disassemble an Iaito if ‘needs must’ as generally cleaning will not require you to take the sword apart, although they will disassemble, it isn’t always a good idea. Ask your sensei first ! Shinken however have slightly higher maintenance requirements and although the ‘needs must’ rule still applies, you will at times need to strip the sword, again ask and gain advice from your instructor and always take great care when handling your Nihonto.
Glossary
Iaito[1] Zink-alloy non sharp construction
Shinken[2] Wholly or partly traditionally made steel live edge construction
Nihonto[3] Literally “Japanese Sword”
Toshin[4] Blade
Mekugi[5] Retaining peg usually made from smoked bamboo
Tsuka[6] Handle of the sword
Tsuba[7] Hand guard
Nakago[8] The tang of the blade which must be almost full length of the tsuka
Seppa[9] Metal spacers between habaki/tsuba/tsuka
Saya[10] Scabbard
Habaki[11] The metal collar which fits between the blade and tsuba
Choji[12] Sword oil
Uchiko[13] Polishing stone ground into fine powder
Mune[14] The back (or spine) of the blade
Hi[15] Commonly known as the “Blood Groves”
Mekugi-nuki [16] Peg Hammer used to remove and replace the retaining peg
Nakago-ana[17] The hole in the tang used to secure the tsuka to the Nakago
Abura-nuguishi[18] Course absorbant paper used for sword cleaning
Regards
The Japanese sword is a weapon of death, it doesn’t matter what philosophical or spiritual attributes you associate with the training in such a weapon; the simple clear fact is this: Swords were and are still designed to kill. – Its important to remember that.
The Japanese sword is deadly even in the hands of fools therefore, great care must be exercised when handling even the least expensive decorative ‘wall hanger’ – Sharp is sharp no matter how much the sword costs – You will only need to be cut once to appreciate this and you’ll never forget the valuable lesson in care needed when handling a Japanese sword.
In my previous article [For those interested in the Japanese Sword (http://www.martialartsplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45509)] I discussed several aspects of owning Nihonto, I present as part two, ‘basic sword care and maintenance’. Please do not substitute this inanimate series of words for quality training with a qualified instructor, the material contained here only serves for illustrative purposes, I take no responsibility for injuries or careless behaviour resulting from what you read here and therefore attempt.
Like Budo, the Japanese sword requires a long-term relationship; care, discipline and commitment from its owner. Regardless of whether you own Iaito[1] or a Shinken[2] your Nihonto[3] requires a level of maintenance to ensure the life of the sword.
In general terms both Iaito and Shinken should be looked after in the same way however, there are slight differences in the cleaning routine depending on which type of toshin[4] you have, this will be explained later. The emphasis being, regardless of construction treat your sword with due respect.
Assuming you train with your sword on a regular basis, you will need to ensure the toshin is kept free of the mineral deposits found in human fingers, this contact although light, will happen during your training. The content of these mineral deposits will oxidise (essentially rust) the blade if they are left unattended. The oxidisation process however isn’t a problem for Iaito, this is due to the chromium plating which is used to simulate the polishing of a more traditionally constructed blade. Iaito are generally considered low maintenance compared to Shinken but, needless to say, finger marks on ANY sword look unsightly and illustrate a basic lack of respect for the weapon and the training undertaken.
The process of cleaning a Japanese sword is relatively straight forward requires only common sense, a small cleaning kit (of the right materials). If you are cleaning a live edged sword please exercise great care !!
Step 1. Disassembly
Gently tap out the Mekugi[5] using the peg hammer, remove the peg completely and inspect it for undue stress. If you intend to reuse the mekugi, store it in a safe place.
Inverting the sword and holding the Tsuka[6] tightly, push against the Tsuba[7] with the thumb to release the assembly; you may also need to tap your forearm with your opposite fist to assist in loosening the handle form the tang. Gently slide the tsuka away from the Nakago[8], in turn; remove the Seppa[9] and tsuba from the blade, now carefully withdraw the blade from the Saya[10].
Remove the Habaki[11].
Step 2. Cleaning
At this stage, if you own an Iaito all you’ll need do is dry wipe the blade with a clean cloth, inspect the entire blade for any damage or wear, then apply a thin layer of Choji[12] as described below. Iaito owners can jump to the reassembly section below.
If you own a Shinken, then it will require a little more attention. Using an uchiko[13] ball gently tap along the entire length of both sides of the blade, not forgetting to tap at least three times along the Mune[14] The uchiko powder serves to both absorb any mineral deposits but also acts as a mild polishing medium. This is why uchiko is not used on Iaito, the polishing effect which uchiko has over a prolonged time will scratch the plating used on these blades to similate a traditional polish.
Using a clean lint-free cloth carefully wipe the entire length of the blade removing all of the uchiko. It is advisable to use slow single length wipes from one end to the tip of the blade.
Point of note:
If you are careless at this stage you may find yourself requiring medical attention to your missing or badly sliced finger ends. – Be careful !
Inspect the blade for remaining marks – repeat the uchiko process if required.
It should be pointed out that you should never attempt to clean, remove rusting or the discolouration from the nakago – Especially on older swords.
Next we should apply a thin layer of protective sword oil, Choji. Abura-nuguishi[18] supplied with your cleaning kit pour a small amount of the oil on to the paper then apply in slow single wipe fashion; again be careful !
Make sure the oil is applied into the Hi[15].
Make a final inspection of the blade.
Step 3. Re-assembly
Reassembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly, first replace the Habaki, seppa and tsuba followed by the remaining seppa, replace the tsuka and gently tapping the base of the handle to ensure the nakago is fully seated, you may need to use the tapered end of the Mekugi-nuki [16] to make the final adjustment to align the nakago-ana[17]. Once this is done replace the mekugi. Carefully replace the sword back in to the scabbard.
Considerations:
Iaito are ‘factory’ constructed and generally have a much tighter fit between the tsuka and nakago, one should therefore only disassemble an Iaito if ‘needs must’ as generally cleaning will not require you to take the sword apart, although they will disassemble, it isn’t always a good idea. Ask your sensei first ! Shinken however have slightly higher maintenance requirements and although the ‘needs must’ rule still applies, you will at times need to strip the sword, again ask and gain advice from your instructor and always take great care when handling your Nihonto.
Glossary
Iaito[1] Zink-alloy non sharp construction
Shinken[2] Wholly or partly traditionally made steel live edge construction
Nihonto[3] Literally “Japanese Sword”
Toshin[4] Blade
Mekugi[5] Retaining peg usually made from smoked bamboo
Tsuka[6] Handle of the sword
Tsuba[7] Hand guard
Nakago[8] The tang of the blade which must be almost full length of the tsuka
Seppa[9] Metal spacers between habaki/tsuba/tsuka
Saya[10] Scabbard
Habaki[11] The metal collar which fits between the blade and tsuba
Choji[12] Sword oil
Uchiko[13] Polishing stone ground into fine powder
Mune[14] The back (or spine) of the blade
Hi[15] Commonly known as the “Blood Groves”
Mekugi-nuki [16] Peg Hammer used to remove and replace the retaining peg
Nakago-ana[17] The hole in the tang used to secure the tsuka to the Nakago
Abura-nuguishi[18] Course absorbant paper used for sword cleaning
Regards